Stamping soap is super easy and can create a really cool looking soap! There are two key tricks to remember when stamping soap: 1) Don’t use too much colorant. 2) Stamp just after you cut a batch. The rest is really up to your imagination.
Let’s get started with a step by step walk through!
Make your batch of soap. When you make your soap think about the stamp you are going to be using. Is it a large stamp that will fill an entire bar? Or is it a smaller stamp? Is it square or rectangular or some other shape? The shape of your stamp should dictate your design.
Example Small Stamp
Example Vertical Stamp
Flowers with Embedded Cube
Example Full Bar Stamp
Solid Bar/One color
Prepare your color and stamp. Spoon approximately 1 teaspoon of mica (or other colorant) onto a sheet of wax paper.
Note on Colors: I love to use micas. Their shimmer and sparkle always make the soap look just a little extra special to me. I also find micas stamp the best for me. You can use other colorants though. Oxides and pigments work, but I find they can be a little harder to get a clean smooth/uniform stamp with sometimes. Titanium Dioxide works, but can be very difficult to stamp cleanly.
Note on Stamps: There are different types of stamps: Rubber (commercial or hand carved), acrylic, and metal. From experience I find that the rubber stamps work best. Their surface area is typically larger and they hold the colorant to them. That said I have stamped soaps with metal and acrylic stamps reasonably well. There’s just not as much color stamped on the soap with them.
Cut your soap. Lay it on a flat surface. Gently tap your stamp in the mica. Make sure all the flat surfaces are covered. You want a thin layer of mica on the stamp. Too much and you won’t get as clear a stamp/imprint. If you have too much colorant on the stamp gently tap it on your work table to remove some of the excess mica.
Firmly (and evenly) press the stamp into the soap. Play around with the pressure you need. Too little and you will get a light or partial imprint on the soap. Too much pressure and you could distort the detail and leave deep marks in the soap.
For each soap you stamp reapply a layer of mica to the stamp.
These are some examples of different stamps I’ve tried. Some have worked great and others not so much.
Acrylic Stamp: As you can see there’s really not much color on the stamp part. What did transfer was the color that was on the outside of the stamp. Another lesson you can learn from this picture is I used the wrong size stamp for this soap. I really needed a stamp that was more square shaped to fill the entire black space.
Titanium Dioxide: I’ve never had a huge amount of success when using TD to stamp soaps. This one isn’t awful, but it definitely lacks any type of wow factor too.
Activated Charcoal: This is still (to this day) one of my favorite soaps. The charcoal stamped the soap so nicely and it just pops!
Neon Pigment: This stamp is a hand carved stamp. I find they don’t quite have the same ability as commercial stamps when stamping soap. You have to be a bit more meticulous when stamping with them. I used a neon colorant here which made it even harder. I love this stamp. I don’t get the crisp clean detail as I would from a commercial stamp but it’s still a pretty stamp.
Small Stamps: I love this honey bee stamp. Worked out perfectly on my little travel soaps.