Using Diagonals in Soap Design
You see horizontal lines in soap designs, and you see vertical lines thanks to many suppliers now have these nifty vertical dividers! What you don’t see a lot of though are diagonal lines used. It’s really not that hard to do (maybe a bit more time consuming) and you can create a variety of looks by using diagonals in your soap.
This tutorial walks you through a simple two layer diagonal soap, but you can get as crazy as you want with the number of layers you use!
Colorants (2 different contrasting colors)
We’re going to make a 2.5lb batch of soap. You can use the following recipe or your own.
|Oil(s) Selected||2.5lb Batch|
|Castor Oil||1.40 oz|
|Avocado Oil||1.40 oz|
|Coconut Oil (76 Degrees)||5.60 oz|
|Olive Oil||9.80 oz|
|Palm Oil||5.60 oz|
|Cocoa Butter||4.20 oz|
|4% Lye Amount||3.90 oz|
Prep your mold. Find something that will allow you to tilt it as a 45 degree angle. I found that my box of wax paper works really well for this, but anything will do, just make sure the mold is steady and will hold in the angled position when you pour your soap.
Once your oils and lye have cooled go ahead and mix them to a very light trace. Do not add any color or fragrance at this point. Separate out half of the mixture into a glass measuring cup (1 lb 4oz). Add your colorant. I used white for my first color. I then added purple 1 teaspoon of jojoba beads to the mixture. 1) It will give the soap a gentle exfoliant. 2) I love the added speckled look you get with the color beads in a white soap base. After those are mixed together add your fragrance. I typically use .7oz to mix with a pound and four ounces of soap, but follow the suppliers suggested usage rate for the fragrance you decide to use.
Pour your soap into the mold. It should create a clean diagonal and fill half your mold. You’ll notice how I have a little too much soap and so some of my soap fills up more than half the mold (that’s just because I measured out 1 lb 6oz of soap and didn’t take out the extra 2oz…not the end of the world!)
This is an optional step. Depending on your design you might want to add a pencil line (or layer of mica) between the layers. I typically don’t do it for just two colors, especially since the mica line tends to get lost in this design. For the sake of the tutorial I added it though. When I really love to add mica lines is when I used multiple layers (3 or more) and I can use a contrasting mica color between the layers of the soap like I did in the Pomegranate Cider soap (pictured below).
You can see how the brown mica layers between the different shades of orange make this soap pop and stand out even more!
I’m going to let that set up for a bit before I do anything with the second part of my soap. The fragrance I used moved fairly quickly so the soap set up and was ready for the second pour in about five minutes time.
Mix you second colorant and about a teaspoon of jojoba beads into the remaining soap. Then add your fragrance.
At this point your soap in the mold should be pretty set up and you should be able to rotate the mold so that you can change the angle to the opposite 45 degrees. You’re going to pour the remaining mix into the mold. Start by pouring it into the bottom and let it fill up over the diagonal side. This will help ensure that you don’t have any “punch throughs” and you keep that nice clean line.
And there you have it! Insulate it, then unmold and cut it 24 hours later. Put it on your cure rack and wait patiently (yeah, I know that’s hard) for 4-6 weeks. And here you have the finished soap:
Here are some different color variations and examples on using multiple diagonal layers to create different affects!